Monday, October 18, 2010

The Many Faiths of Indonesia

It's our last night before we set out for the long trek to Malaysia and Singapore. Though I'm excited for the new places we'll see, Indonesia has been a lot of fun and I'll be sad to say goodbye. I won't forget the beautiful reefs of Adunara, the generosity of the locals in Flores, the rich culture of Bali and the orangutans of Kalimantan. I've loved it all, and hope some day I can come back and have even more adventures.

One thing I've found really fascinating in Indonesia has been the variety in religious beliefs and cultures. I'd heard that Indonesia was over 90 percent Muslim, so I had not expected to see many other religions. However, Indonesia is a big, spread out country; we crossed through three time zones and covered a lot of ground... so to speak. Each island was very different from the others and the locals took great pride in their individual island's culture and main religion.

Kisar was predominantly Christian, the village of Mokko on Adunara was entirely Muslim, while most people in Flores were Catholic. Bali stands out as the only Hindu island in the country and Kalimantan's population is mostly comprised of Muslims. For us, this meant that, except in Bali, where the Hindu religion is very tolerant of Western culture, we tried to keep our dress very conservative. Well, sleeves and longer pants are all well and good, and have their place, but I might argue that that place is not on tropical islands. Bali was quite a relief as far as clothing was concerned and I definitely appreciated getting to wear tank tops and shorts on land.

In all these places, people seemed very dedicated to their faiths. The Hindu women in Bali spend up to 30 percent of their time making religious offerings. These offerings, made of woven palm fronds, flowers, candles and rice, can be found in almost every doorway in Bali and make it necessary to traverse sidewalks with care. And even when the careless foot does crush an offering, as must happen with so many tourists and residents wandering the streets, it matters little, since all the offerings are refreshed every day. In Kelimantan, the call to prayer has been a constant soundtrack, since the many mosques broadcast it through huge speakers five times a day so the chanting fills the air for miles around. When we wandered through the town a few days ago, we saw the lovely outfits the locals change into for the evening prayer. On Kisar we arrived in town on a Sunday and were met by many of the locals after they'd spent the morning at church, and in Macoh, the centerpiece of the village was the mosque.

And oh, how beautiful these temples, mosques and churches have been! Tanah Lot, in Bali, was built on the tidepools, out of the rock itself, and is backlit by the sunset every evening. Here on Kalimantan the mosques are topped with beautiful, brightly colored bulbs. Everywhere we go, places of worship are beautifully crafted and well taken care of.

So while I've never been much of a student of religion, I've very much enjoyed learning about these different faiths. It's made it that much richer and deeper an experience.

Goodbye Indonesia and thanks for all the memories!

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Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Monkey Pool Party!

The Monkeys of Ubud's Monkey Forest are very friendly!

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Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Here Be Dragons?

No cruising trip in Indonesia is complete without a trip to the largely uninhabited, hot, dry and inhospitable island of Komodo. So on our crossing from Flores to Bali, we stopped briefly on Komodo island for some dragon hunting.

As we sailed up to the island, Amanda and I debated the habits of Komodo dragons. She searched the hills, anticipating large herds to be loping gracefully across the grassy hillsides. I scanned the cliffs and rocky areas, expecting to find cave dwelling, grumpy, fire breathing specimens. Unfortunately, I cannot tell you which one of us was correct. As it turns out, Komodo dragons are considerably more elusive than we gave them credit for, and though we searched high and low (nervously), they evaded us.

When we arrived, Alan and I made an initial foray onto the island. Komodo in the late afternoon felt eerie. The beach we landed on was fenced in by mangroves and we were already feeling wary of crocodiles which purportedly live in the same places as Komodo Dragons. Cautiously, we made our way through the low trees, ducking through narrow vines that hung from some branches and avoiding swampy looking ground. Beyond the mangroves was a large dry mudflat scattered with driftwood, abandoned sandals and the odd sun-bleached bone. A few nearby trees were blackened by fire. It truly felt like dragon territory.

We went carefully. Our cruising guide informed us that Komodo Dragons could grow up to 3 meters, weigh 150 kilograms and run 30 km per hour (I now understand why they are not simply called Komodo lizards). If that wasn't daunting enough, we also knew that dragon bite was extremely dangerous. Komodo Dragons have paralyzing bacteria in their mouths, so once they bite you they can take their time eating you. As we walked, we stopped often, and peered around for potentially hungry reptiles.

Our fears were unfounded; there were no dragons nearby. We saw two wild boars but otherwise returned unimpressed. The next morning we searched again. Amanda came with us this time, and in the blazing sunlight the island felt less menacing. Even so, we were careful to look everywhere and stay on high ground as we combed the savannah-like hills. Again, no luck. We returned to the boat drenched in sweat (there is a reason these islands are homes to giant lizards- so incredibly hot and dry), unbitten, and unsatisfied. It was time to move on.

And so, no dragons. I think we will look for them at Bali Zoo. This is sad, but the moral of the story is… um… wild animals are wild? We should not expect them to come at our beck and call. I suppose this is why zoos were invented.

On the topic of dragons: What is the difference between a Komodo Dragon and a dinosaur? Komodo Dragons don't breathe fire, nor do they fly. Why aren't they Komodo Dinosaurs? Do Komodo Dragons like treasure? Do they kidnap innocent young maidens?

On a similar note- isn't a Pterodactyl a fireless dragon?

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